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 07-14-2002, 08:52 Post: 40353
Peters

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 Thick Door Casing

I poured my basement with insulative concrete forms. The basement is currently separated into 3 rooms with concrete sub walls. I would like to place doors in the entrances to the other rooms, but the walls are 1 foot thick and will be another 1" thick with dry wall.
Factory door casing are for 6 and 4 inch walls.
Options: Cut normal casing and extend factory casing - Build casing from scratch and find door - narrow doorway and place casing in door
One area is the main path to the back door so I am adverse to narrowing too much.






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 07-14-2002, 15:15 Post: 40365
Peters

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 Thick Door Casing

David;
The space is wide enough for a normal casing, but the casings are not deep enough to accomidate a 13" thick wall.
If I narrow the door opening to accomidate a normal stock casing then I will need to narrow the door way at lest 6 inches. As anything entering the basement will need to pass through this door and the outside door I would like to keep it at least 34" or 36". I think I will be down to 32 if I do this.
I made one casing for a closet using 1 x 6, but I did not think of the 1 x 12 or better yet 2 x 12 which would provide a strong support for the door an allow me to anchor it into the concrete.
Any other suggestions?






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 07-21-2002, 08:35 Post: 40554
Peters

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 Thick Door Casing

Tom;
A normal interior prehung door has a casing that separates in the middle. The casing has a tongue and slot to accomidate the slight differences in wall thicknesses. The trim around the door mounts to one edge of the door rough frame and the other trim slides in from the other side. (I am sure you have done this.) As the edges are smooth and square on each side of the casing you could dress out the middle of the door frame in the center of the door, but the casing has the deep groove which has no strength unless filled with the tongue.
I guess I could fill the groove with a thin piece of wood to prevent cracking.
The main problem with this solution is that the center of the rough opening is a solid cement wall. I would need to mount the center trim out board into cement. This sort of prevents using 1" lumber and makes it difficult to align etc.






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